September 9th, 2010

Tangnag to Labuche via Cho La. That’s not a glacier. THIS is a glaier.

Holy shit.

I hit my wall today. I think we all did. And surprisingly it wasn’t the climb up Cho La that did it.

We set out at 6.45 am. And in the first hour were headed right up into the 3,000 vertical feet of the pass. The path is all loose rock and boulders. Beautiful stones to be stepping on, although it’s hard to focus on that when you’re having a tough time breathing. The day is made more difficult as I’m well on my way to a bronchial infection and Lisa woke up with a digestive bug.

But despite that illness. And the clouds. And the vertical climb. And lack of oxygen. We are on top of Cho La pass by 11 am. And we’re in pretty good shape. The entire team of guys has waited on the top for us and when we hit the top they give us a resounding cheer of ‘Stronger than a Yak!’

On the other side of the pass is the glacier I’d imagined. Snow covered ice stretches out in front of us, and a pool of blue water is at the base of our feet. We hang out at the top for a bit, and then head out, slipping and sliding on the ice.

After we cross the glacier and head partway down the slope, we stop for an easy picnic lunch. 12.45. Feeling good. In good spirits. It’s the next 4 or so unexpected hours to Labuche that do us in. I think we figured the hard stuff was over. And then it was hill after hill after hill, that all look the same and never seems to stop. Crossing each rise with hope only to see another rise with despair.

We all get quiet. No singing. Tired. I’ve got a knife in my lungs and Lisa hasn’t really eaten today. Anita is the only one keeping up any kind of attempt at jollity (does that make her sound like Santa Claus? Too ‘Merry Christmas to all and to all a good night?’).

Tsering has told us we’d be there by three. Three rolls around and we’re still in the Himalayan Hall of Mirrors. We’re beginning to crack. I’m holding back obscenities, and Anita is getting punchy.

We finally pull in around 4.30 or so, not too far behind our guys. And pretty much clean up, eat and collapse into bed wondering if our decision to walk through the Himalayas has turned from meditation to madness.

Pictures

Tsering with Cho La Pass behind him

Our team on top of Cho La

Ngawa getting ready to go

Azhi Melwa 'Stronger than a Yak!'

Glacier at Cho La, Tsering in corner for scale

Crossing the glacier